Legendarisk topvin fra Domaine des Lambrays og noget af det allerstørste, man kan opdrive i hele Bourgogne!
Med Clos des Lambrays er vi helt oppe blandt de største burgundiske sværvægtere. Vi taler her om eliten indenfor Grand Cru Bourgogne, et vaskeægte ikon, intet mindre.
Den utrolige kvalitet i vinen afspejles også tydeligt i anmeldelserne fra feks. Jasper Morris, Vinous og Decanter, der har tildelt årgang 2021 henholdsvis 97, 98 og 97 point.
Der gæres fortrinsvis med stilke, omtrent 80 procent, hvorefter lagringen finder sted i primært nye egetræsfade (60 %). Vinen besidder en nærmest ubeskrivelig intensitet og dybde, der efterlader indtryk af en vin, som snildt vil kunne gemmes forsvarligt væk og nydes om 15-20 år. Et indiskutabelt mesterværk fra en Bourgognes mest ikoniske producenter.
Clos des Lambrays er en fuldkommen unik vin fra en af Bourgognes mest feterede producenter. I alt producerer Domaine des Lambrays 5 vine, men kronjuvelen er ubestridt Clos des Lambrays. Vinen tager navn efter den 8,84 hektar store Grand Cru mark i Morey Saint Denis, der lige akkurat ikke har status af at være en monopolmark, da én anden producent, Domaine Taupenot-Merme ejer en mikroskopisk andel. Marken er blandt de ældste og mest sagnomspundne i hele Bourgogne, hvis rødder kan spores helt tilbage til 1365.
Ejerskabet af Domaine des Lambrays skiftede i 2014 hænder, da huset blev overtaget en LVMH-gruppen, der i forvejen ejer vinhuse såsom Krug, Dom Perignon, Château d’Yquem og Cheval Blanc. Et yderst eksklusivt og fornemt selskab, hvor Domaine des Lambrays ubesværet passer ind.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy - 95-97
I tasted four different cuvées, all of which had been vinified with 100% whole bunches, and then the final blend. La Plante Dessous seemed useful as a blending component but not quite Grand cru on its own. The other three were in a different league: Cerisier is not extra concentrated in colour but a fine red purple. The nose has much more elegance and nobility and shows the whole bunch more. There is unquestionably a cherry taste to the fruit, fresh white pepper, good acidity and fine length. Much more noble. Les 50 Ouvrées (Milieu) offers a little more depth to the vivid purple colour The nose shows more weight too with the fruit slight taking the lead over the vinification. A vast sweet red fruit mouthful here, cherries again but now with a denser raspberry note behind. Complex long aftertaste. Les 50 Ouvrées (Dessus) is bright crimson purple in colour. A vigorous solid nose, less evidence of the whole bunches (100%). Less flamboyant yet with great density. This could make the heart of the cuvée with the cherries from the others to add a top note. Very sensual, undoubtedly grand cru with a long rich red fruit finish elongated by the whole bunch vinification. Limestone tension, slower ripening here. And now for the blend. A lovely even ruby colour across the glass. The bouquet just starts to peep out slowly, 80% whole bunch as Plante Dessus and Milieu were destemmed in 2021. Just a little light pepper seasoning the deep red berry fruit which has a multiplicity of nuances. Overall, the wine has a magical sense of harmony but is the opposite of monolithic, showing waves of flavour and exquisite detail. If this continues to grow in the barrel, as Jacques suspects it will, it could well be a five star wine. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted: November 2022.
Vinous - 97
The 2021 Clos de Lambrays Grand Cru continues to impress. Lighter in hue than the 2019 served alongside, it has a lovely nose, the 80 % whole-bunch imparting a patina of herbaceousness, damp forest floor, that marries beautifully with the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with at fresh, supremely poised entry. Notes of cedar and sage develop, the tannins more pliant than when I tasted this from barrel, with a piquant finish. Outstanding.
Decanter - 97
It is hard to overstate my enthusiasm for this wine, with its impressive ripeness, plump, plummy fruit with notes of black cherry and liquorice. The texture is densely structured, firm but not hard, and long but not heavy. There is still the freshness and finesse to make this among the best wines of the vintage. This is the reunion of all the old-vine parcels in the Clos and a pretty convincing argument for director Jacques Devauges’ assertion that Lambrays is the pinnacle of Morey-St-Denis.
| Årgang | 2021 |
| Vintype | Rødvin |
| Land | Frankrig |
| Område | Bourgogne |
| Kommune | Morey-Saint-Denis |
| Producent | Domaine des Lambrays |
| Alkoholprocent | 13.5% |
| Indhold | 75cl |
| Produktionsmetode | Konventionel |
| Faktablad | Hent faktablad |
| Varenr. | 69539 |
