2018 Criots Batard Montrachet Grand Cru

Vinous - 94-96

The 2018 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru consists of just one lonely 250-liter barrel this year. There was a little reduction on the nose at first, but it blows away to reveal intense citrus fruit, undergrowth and flinty aromas. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, with a strong marine influence (oyster shell and an almost briny element) and great persistence on the finish. Superb.

Robert Parker - 96-98

A candidate for the title of white wine of the vintage in Burgundy this year is Lamy's incredible 2018 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité. Unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of citrus oil, clear honey, fresh pastry, mandarin oil and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, ineffably complete and multidimensional. Its caressingly satiny attack segues into a bottomless mid-palate that displays striking concentration without weight, framed by chalky dry extract. Long and resonant, this is a formidable achievement from a great vigneron at the peak of his powers.