Elegant og topanmeldt Margaux.
Der er registreret vinproduktion helt tilbage til 1500-tallet på denne Margaux-ejendom. I 1845 blev Giscours overtaget af greven af Pescatore, som opførte det nuværende slot og ansatte den teknisk begavede Pierre Skawinski til at stå for driften af slottet. Det gjorde han i 50 år og udviklede i den periode bl.a. en særlig type plov til vinmarkerne, ligesom hans teknikker til at bekæmpe meldug på vinplanterne var epokegørende for hele området. Også metoden med at transportere vinen rundt i kældrene ved hjælp af tyngdekraften kan tilskrives Skawinski, som på mange punkter var forud for sin tid.
Efter Skawinski fulgte en årrække, hvor det gik jævnt ned ad bakke for 3. cru-slottet Giscours. Markerne blev forsømt og var i en miserabel forfatning, da slottet i 1954 blev købt af Nicolas Tari. Han koncentrerede sig om at genopbygge og udvide ejendommen, og da Eric Albada Jelgersma og hans kone Louise i 1995 investerede i Giscours, var der således basis for at videreudvikle og løfte vinene herfra. Desværre blev slottet tre år senere genstand for en større skandale. Det blev afsløret, at man i slottets andenvin, La Sirene de Giscours, mod reglerne havde anvendt druemateriale fra Haut-Medoc - altså ikke fra Margaux. Desuden kom det frem, at vinen var blevet tilsat både mælk, vand og frugtsyre i et forsøg på at ”pynte på” kvaliteten. Den daværende direktør erkendte dette, og i stedet fik den unge Alexander van Beek ansvaret for driften af Giscours, samt Jelgersma-familiens anden Margaux-ejendom du Tertre. Van Beek afskaffede maskinhøst, fortsatte den igangværende genplantning med en større andel af cabernet sauvignon-planter og har senest sat gang i en konvertering til biodynamisk dyrkning. Skandalen har man for længst lagt bag sig.
Over 100 ha er beplantet med vinstokke, der udelukkende anvendes til fremstilling af Château Giscours. Stokkene er i gennemsnit 45 år gamle med en fordeling på 60 pct. cabernet sauvignon, 32 pct. merlot, 5 pct. cabernet franc og 3 pct. petit verdot. Druerne høstes med håndkraft og selekteres omhyggeligt - bl.a. ved hjælp af optisk sortering med lyssensorer, der automatisk kasserer uegnede druer. Vinfikation foregår på en kombination af stål- og betontanke. Efterfølgende lagres vinen i 18 måneder på barriques, hvoraf 50 pct. er nye. Château Giscours er en elegant, let fyldig rødvin med god frugtkoncentration af modne blommer, solbær, brombær og kirsebær og et markant strejf af grafit og sort te.
James Suckling - 98
Stunning aromas of blackcurrants, dark mushrooms and black cherries with forest-floor notes. Full body that fills your mouth with fine, caressing tannins and dark, flavorful fruit. The tannins are very intense and structural, spreading across the palate in layers and giving intensity and energy. Plenty of energy and verve here. This has gravity, too. 64% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 3% petit verdot and 3% cabernet franc. Best after 2029.
Jeb Dunnuck - 97+
The deeply colored and glass-staining 2022 Château Giscours is packed with cassis, black cherries, violets, and graphite-like aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, it’s concentrated and intense, with beautifully ripe tannins, a pure, graceful mouthfeel, and a long, structured finish. There’s serious depth here, and while it already shows remarkable balance.
Robert Parker - 96
The 2022 Giscours has realized all the potential it showed en primeur, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of sweet berries, mint, rose petals and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's textural and enveloping, built around lively acids and sweet powdery tannins, concluding with a long, resonant finish. As I pondered two years ago, why is the 2022 so good? There are many reasons, but one is the high proportion of old vines—almost 60% of the blend derives from vines that are over 50 years old—in a vintage that favored vines with deep, well-established root systems.
Decanter - 96
A seriously impressive and beguiling Giscous in 2022 and one of the most elegant. A remarkable wine with gorgeous clarity and purity and just the most gentle seduction, even more so because it really doesn't feel as if it's trying too hard yet still delivering depth and complexity. Fresh and lifted, fragrant and so juicy but with textured tannins that give both the weight, structure and density to the quite bright, tangy, vibrant fruit. Nicely composed, feels quite powerful yet restrained and finessed offering lots of immediate drinking appeal but with a serious backbone that suggests long ageing too. Elegant, fineseed, subtle confidence with such cool minerality that gives freshness all the way through. It's not the most dense, or fleshy, but so refined. A compelling wine. Possible upscore in bottle. 3% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. 3.70pH. A yield of 27hl/ha, the lowest ever. No Sirene de Giscours this year. 100% grand vin. Ageing 17 months, 50% new oak. 10-15% press wine. Tasted twice.
Vinous - 96
The 2022 Giscours is compelling, just as it was en primeur. Deep, layered and inviting, the 2022 possesses notable textural richness and intensity. Yields were down about 25%, and drought starting in May produced tiny berries with thick skins. The 2022 is a very rich Giscours, one that will need a number of years to shed some baby fat. But even with all of that obvious richness, the 2022 clocks in at 13.5% alcohol. This is such a classy wine. Tasted three times.
Wine Spectator - 95
Warmed cassis and plum notes form the core, while lilting lilac, violet and iris accents stream throughout. Offers a flash of black tea on the finish, along with a beguiling, cashmerelike mouthfeel. Judicious toast lets it all play out beautifully. A pitch-perfect example of the vintage profile. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.
| Årgang | 2022 |
| Vintype | Rødvin |
| Land | Frankrig |
| Område | Bordeaux |
| Kommune | Margaux |
| Producent | Château Giscours |
| Alkoholprocent | 13% |
| Indhold | 75cl |
| Druer | Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot |
| Produktionsmetode | Konventionel |
| Faktablad | Hent faktablad |
| Varenr. | 70775 |
