The 2018 Volnay En Champans 1er Cru is a tiny production of a single new barrel that includes 100% whole stems. It has a wonderful bouquet of pixelated blackberry and raspberry fruit mixed with a touch of briar and undergrowth. The palate is seriously good, intense red and black fruit intermingling and the whole bunch discreetly intertwined with superb salinity toward the finish. It will require several years to assimilate the new wood, but do your best to grab one of the tiny number of magnums that Clerget will bottle.

Sweet spot Outstanding