1990 Vouvray Moelleux 1ere Trie Le Mont

Jancis Robinson - 19

Tom Cannavan - 92

Now onto a trio of 1ère Trie wines with a much higher Botrytis level. Monsiuer Pinguet makes the point that since 1989 harvest has been earlier, yet sugar levels higher, and believes this is conclusive proof of global warming. This wine enjoys around 120g of residual sugar. It has a very dark, caramel colour; very luscious. This is the first wine to really wear its Noble Rot on its sleeve, with a flood of butterscotch, honey, fig and toast on the nose, with a lovely limpid quality and Brazil nut richness. The palate is equally toasty and rich, with warm, honeyed flavours. This is stunningly pure, washing over the palate with unctuous fruit, but balanced by a lovely tea-leaf finesse, burnt caramel, and an immense core of acidity that leaves the palate tingling, whilst coated with flavour and texture. Superb stuff, with more lush toast and spice into the finish. A baby too.